JAISALMER ON EDGE OF THAR DESERT

John had a rough night last night in Jodhpur with his cold but held on with frequent paracetamol.  Moira and I went for a walk in the windy streets and enjoyed the strange produce and smells.  It was hard not to get run over by tuktuk or motorbike or cow.  We sussed out the 5 star hotel called Pal Haveli with rooftop restaurant Indique and another morroccan looking bar full of tourists called Kharaj.  We also found a huge lake/square tank pillared around the edge in the middle of the tangle with Geneva like fountain - could probably never find it again.  We used the fort above us at all times to navigate back home and were rather dismayed when upon showing our hotel business card nobody had ever heard of it... we were starting to imagine a life forever in the white slave trade of Jodhpur - but eventually the fort loomed into view and between us we got back.  We ate in the little rooftop restaurant and I must have had something dicey as I awoke this morning with explosive Delly belly and the prospect of a 5 hour car ride.  Anyway we managed to hobble around Merhengarrh fort which was amazing - especially the collection of Howdahs for riding on elephants and palanquins to be carried on - also some lovely miniature paintings.  One day when I have got nothing else to do I will explain to you the many uses of an old sock when wandering around a historical monument - but that is for much later!

The road from Jodhpur started very rough but soon smoothed out and we left behind the hooting trucks and taxis for a quieter trip.  The landscape on the way was very much like African savannah with thorn bushes and trees and the vestiges of grass from the monsoon.  We saw a few delicate wild deer feeding under trees as well as a few flocks of birds of prey and cows goats and sheep.  We passed several working camels pulling carts and many just roaming loose eating thorntree leaves.  This morning we met a man riding around Jodhpur on a huge elephant - just as if one always does such a thing.

Our hotel in Jaisalmer is just outside the mud brick fort and is an ornate sandstone exterior with a nice airy roof terrace/dining area with lovely views of the fort.  John and I are taking it easy in our room for a few hours and will probably find Moira has been kidnapped by a camel caravan and forced to dance the dance of the seven veils - and wouldn't she love it!  Will try to take a couple of photos for you on the ipad as we cant get any off our cameras these days.  Had a chat with Joyce last night and heard the terrible tale of the storm and looked on youtube at Milford seafront area - poor thing - she was petrified but thanks to you all for rallying round and phoning her up - She was very appreciative.

had to take this one through the mosquito net from our bedroom window of the fort.  We are here tomorrow and then heading back towards Delhi with first stop 5 hours East at Bikaner for one night.

Our driver called Nipu is very nice and is 33 years old and from the foothills of the Himalaya.

I think our current hotel is a bolthole for young gap year hippis wanting to sample dope or Bang Lassi milkshakes - I think it rather spoiled the vibe when the equal of their parents X 3 waltzed in to stay at the same place!  You can't get away from the Grey Nomads - we're on your heels and even one step ahead of you!!